tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27589199443590155372024-03-12T22:22:05.862-05:00Pet Educationlatrendahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09834930615541878308noreply@blogger.comBlogger300125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-55633861456468729512015-05-31T14:06:00.001-05:002015-05-31T14:06:11.400-05:00Give New Pets Some Time To Settle In<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">New Family Members</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In describing bringing home a rescue animal, someone wrote "he [the dog] is still trying to figure out whether or not you are going to eat him."</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A bit dramatic but it is a good analogy. Your new family member knows nothing about you. And while you know your home is a thousand times better than living in a shelter, your new companion doesn't know that yet. Just coming into a new environment can be scary. So for the first couple of days with your new family member, do nothing.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">No walks (except potty breaks), no visitors, no pet stores, no baths, no hand feeding, no playing with food, etc.. Just put food down and walk away.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Treats for captured desired behaviors is fine.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">No petting unless the dog specifically asks for petting. And when he/she asks, just calm, short pets - maybe on the chest or or under the chin. Pet only for a few seconds, stop, see if he wants you to continue. No hugging squeezing, no vigorous rubbing. No physical playing.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Don't give full run of the house yet. Maybe just access to the family room and the master bedroom (if dog is allowed in there) then slowly increase freedom.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A vet trip might be necessary of course, but wait for everything else.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Keep pup out of trouble - remote controls, shoes out of reach; counter clean; etc..</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It can be tempting to introduce your new family member to friends and family but it's too early for that. Let the new dog/cat/.. get you know you and your immediate in-residence family first.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After a few days you can start short walks in quiet places. Do not stop and talk and strangers, don't walk near strangers or other dogs. It's too soon for the dog park yet.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After a few more days, family and friends can start meeting your dog, but just one person at a time and make sure the person is well coached. No petting at first - unless the dog specifically asks for it and then only short pets.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If you know that a friend or family member won't listen to your instructions or if you know the person has used a "heavy hand" with dogs before, then hold off on those meetings.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">All of the above is just for "normal" dogs or dogs who appear to be normal. If your pup already has known issues, then you'd want to go much much slower than what I describe here.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For more on bringing home a rescue dog, check out Patricia McConnell's"Love Has No Age Limit"</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2645817669955128; margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-top: 5pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">only 100 pages for full of good info.</span></div>
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<a href="http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Famzn.com%2F1891767143&h=pAQFqY8Nx&enc=AZO01NmzqHgFrcqp4RCZdeC_J6RGMiNluVgARPmWXiz16Lr1MoMTvIFm1hHoC3t4tRt5xbvWvCmck2R06H1AYvSXNXob-Jf_3MmU2Ij6hBDd2LZodbkKtEa9ihBG-xSZopf81Fx4R5ZJI0S3z-toflSuQfGe-o9HeEgcNWvM13lueyeJ5amVUCQ4GTxYuohzPLA&s=1" style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #3b5998; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">http://amzn.com/1891767143</span></a></div>
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Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-40731235550840277772015-04-22T16:45:00.000-05:002015-04-22T19:35:10.316-05:00When Pets Don't Like Each OtherHave you ever had to live or work with someone you didn't like? Think of the things that made the process a bit more bearable for you (time apart, everyone in their own space, less stress in general, focusing on other things, etc..)<br />
Those same things might also help pets who have to live together.<br />
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But before we start talking about that, lets look some other issues or cautions<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;">Note: Work with a certified behaviorist (or maybe even a vet behaviorist) on the below choices/scenarios</span></b><br />
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1. Are the fight injurious? Are there children who might get in the way? Are the fights escalating? Complete or partial separation might need to be considered while evaluating the relationship<br />
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Complete separation: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153138927526823/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153138927526823/</a><br />
Partial separation: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsYPaaahzQ&index=7&list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsYPaaahzQ&index=7&list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe</a><br />
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<br />
2. Medical evals for everyone - Humans and non humans<br />
A pet in pain might be "cranky"<br />
If a pet has a medical problem, it can affect how how other pets treat him/her<br />
If a human has any issues, it could cause the pets stress and that stress can show "crankiness"<br />
Medical evals might includes checks for physical or mental issues<br />
Kidneys, liver, heart, thyroid, joint pain, dementia, anxiety, etc..<br />
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3. Can the relationship be rebuilt? Work with a skilled behaviorist on desensitization and counter conditioning. (DS/CC) Make the sight of the pet something to look forward to for the other pet. This can be difficult if there are resource guarding issues or if it's hard to get a good distance from one another. But a skilled behaviorist might be able to help work something out.<br />
One example at this link:<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/04/dog-doesn-t-like-new-puppy.html" target="_blank"> http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/04/dog-doesn-t-like-new-puppy.html</a><br />
Skip down to the numbered list about half way down the page.<br />
This process would need be modified depending on each individual situation<br />
<br />
See more on DS/CC here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html</a><br />
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4. Well proofed cues<br />
Having some things in place like go mat or go to crate can be quite useful when one pet is giving the other the "evil eye"<br />
Try to stop an argument before it starts by calmly asking everyone to go to their places<br />
Make the training fun. Train during boring times then slowly increase distractions. So the behavior will be in place when needed.<br />
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Proofing: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10152808126606823/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10152808126606823/</a><br />
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Looking for a "tell"( figure out what the pet will do before he/she does it)<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sNHqOonwYA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sNHqOonwYA</a> <br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsLzlCYSFtY">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsLzlCYSFtY</a><br />
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The value of mat value: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmVitwA13pU" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmVitwA13pU</a><br />
Teaching "Go To Mat": <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVGaslyGaGE" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVGaslyGaGE </a><br />
Also see everything by Leslie McDevitt (Control Unleashed books and DVDs) for info on the usefulness of mat value<br />
<br />
Building crate value: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/02/crate-acclimation.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/02/crate-acclimation.html</a><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><b>Important - Don't send pets to their places as punishment</b>.</span> Make going to place a fun thing<br />
A pet who is growling/hissing or lunging or barking or even biting or scratching might be showing discomfort with his/her situation.<br />
I don't recommend timeouts for a pet who is trying to communicate<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/time-outs.html" target="_blank"><b>http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/time-outs.html</b></a><br />
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5. Jolly talk<br />
The may or may not work in all households. But if you see tension, try laughing or jolly talking, or initiating a game of play - just something to diffuse the situation. Try to do this before things get too tense. I do some jolly talking in this video (also posted above): <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sNHqOonwYA" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sNHqOonwYA</a><br />
For more on Jolly talking, see <a href="http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/2013/10/jolly-talk/" target="_blank">http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/2013/10/jolly-talk/</a><br />
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6. Stress Reduction and Relaxation. As mentioned at the start of this post. We can deal with bothersome people a lot easier if there aren't other stressful things in our lives.<br />
So try to look for ways to reduce the stress in the household: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/stress-reduction-for-behavioral-issues.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/stress-reduction-for-behavioral-issues.html</a><br />
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Teach relaxation:<br />
Formally: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html</a><br />
And informally: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153031812756823/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153031812756823/</a><br />
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Work with each pet individually to keep their minds focused on something other than the sibling they dislike<br />
Calm sniff walks<br />
Fun trick training<br />
Scent games: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElGbNnnIFWc&list=PL70eA_MZvAVpN5SFukOeB2k2CM15mf8Vd" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElGbNnnIFWc&list=PL70eA_MZvAVpN5SFukOeB2k2CM15mf8Vd</a><br />
Puzzles<br />
etc..<br />
<br />
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7. The loudest and/or strongest isn't always the instigator. Just because one pet charges or bites or growls or hisses doesn't mean that was the pet who has the issue. If you are not sure which pet is causing the issue, work with each pet individually and evenly. <br />
Teach well proofed cues to both pets, send both pets to their crates or mats, etc..<br />
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8. If it's safe to do so, reward everything that is not arguing or fighting or staring or snarling. i.e. see the pets sitting calmly ignoring each other, then calmly give both a treat. See pets calmly sniffing each other's butts - praise and/or treat. But work with a skilled behaviorist. If there is tension or resource guarding, a treat could make things worse. <br />
<br />
Info on finding a trainer here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html</a><br />
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Other links that may or may not be useful<br />
Reactivity: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
Growling/Hissing Is Good<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/growling-is-good.html" target="_blank"> http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/growling-is-good.html</a><br />
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Trigger Stacking: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/trigger-stacking.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/trigger-stacking.html</a><br />
Bleeding Backwards Through Time: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2011/10/bleeding-backwards-through-time.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2011/10/bleeding-backwards-through-time.html</a><br />
Multi pet household safety: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/multi-dog-household-safety.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/multi-dog-household-safety.html</a><br />
Loose Leash Walking: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html</a><br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-27465554885213333912015-04-14T11:18:00.003-05:002015-04-14T11:34:35.485-05:00Pets and Furniture. Part II. Asking Our Dogs To Get Off Of FurnitureIn our <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/09/pets-and-furniture.html" target="_blank">last post</a> on pets and furniture, we talked about how to ask a dog to get off the sofa or bed.<br />
And we briefly mentioned that we should never pull a dog off. Here are some reasons why:<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
1. When on a raised surface, as dog needs to be able to get down his/her own way. If we pull a dog off, they might not be able to position themselves properly for the drop. Which could result in injury<br />
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2. Being pulled down from a raised surface can be quite scary. Think about it. I you were sitting on top of a 6 foot wall, would you want to dragged off?<br />
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3. Just being grabbed (by the collar or body) can be scary for many dogs. Also pulling on a dog's neck could cause injury (short or long term)<br /><br />
It might not seem like a big deal to humans; but if we scare or hut the dog often enough, we might see a dog who starts growling at us as we approach them when on furniture.<br />
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More info here on the problems with physical manipulation: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/10/pitfalls-of-physical-manipulation-in.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/10/pitfalls-of-physical-manipulation-in.html </a><br />
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In our last post, we demonstrated some ways to ask our dogs to move. We can also ask our dogs to move by tapping where we would like them to be: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUoBmYeE9T4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUoBmYeE9T4</a><br />
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<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UUoBmYeE9T4?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></center>
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Or we can use targeting: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153012958176823/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10153012958176823/</a><br />
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<br />
When asking dogs to get off the sofa, be aware of our body language. If we are standing directly in front of the dog, our words might be saying off, but our body language is saying stay there.<br />
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Try this body positions:<br />
- Walk backwards<br />
- Stand sideways<br />
- or face the opposite direction<br />
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For more on pressure, see: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10152572735511823/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/20444826822/permalink/10152572735511823/</a> <br />
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If none of these work, it's best to just wait until the dog leaves and remind yourself the next time to be more careful about blocking access.<br />
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Some people like to teach on and off, but I'm concerned about asking a dog to jump up and down too often (in case of any joint issues)<br />
For detailed instructions on how to teach a dog on and off, see: "Placement Cues" on page 92 of Jean Donaldson's "Culture Clash": <a href="http://amzn.com/B00A2XQ17Q" target="_blank">http://amzn.com/B00A2XQ17Q</a>. <br />
<br />
<b>**Note: if a dog jumps up to a surface that is too high. It might be
safer to lift him/her down rather than letting the dog jump off on his
or her own. But do not pull the dog off. Carry the dog off instead.
This can also be scary for your dog so try to set things up so that it
doesn't need to be done. But weigh the danger of the dog jumping off a
high place vs the discomfort of being carried off. But also note that
some dogs might bite if physically moved.</b><br />
<b>A better option might be to place something under the raised surface so the dog can safety get down on his or her own - like a mattress</b><br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/</a>Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-38245317650089322292015-04-13T21:07:00.002-05:002015-04-23T23:10:43.838-05:00From the Mail Bag - Trouble With Attention During Loose Leash Walking<span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="color: black;">From a reader:</span> </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">I really enjoy your posts and videos. I have been working on loose leash walking with my Jack Russell Terrier (terrier and highly distractible!) for a long time. We have had minimal success. I notice in your videos that your Puddin is engaged with you while you are walking. My Penny very rarely looks at me when we walk. When she starts pulling, I stop and don’t move again until she comes back to me, sits next to me and looks at me. I reward her and try walking a few more steps. I can get about 2-3 steps before the cycle starts again. We have been doing this for months and have not progressed beyond 2-3 steps.
Do you have any tips I can use to get her to engage with me and try to make the walks a little longer without the big pull? We are walking on the sidewalk in front of my house and have only gotten about two houses away</span>.<br />
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Thanks so much for your compliment. And good job on trying to take things slow. See my responses below.<br />
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<<span style="color: #38761d;"> My Penny very rarely looks at me when we walk></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;">Understandable. The outdoors can be highly distracting. Especially for such a high energy breed. The more we can break down the behaviors we want, the greater chance we have for success. So I would start working on "attention" indoors. The slowly increase distractions. My own dog had trouble going from the yard to the sidewalk. So I had to find something more interesting than the yard but less interesting than the sidewalk. We found it in an empty parking lot (our long line video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR4KX_An5jk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR4KX_An5jk</a>)<br />If that doesn't work, then stay inside and increase distractions while inside. i.e. having someone toss a toy while you walk indoors<br />Or ask your dog to walk past a plate of food while you are indoors (only if your dog can do it - don't set her up for failure or frustration)<br /><br />Info on attention/focus:</span></span><br />
<br />
Watch me: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/4pawsuniversity/photos/a.137573622069.109578.49741042069/10153149287112070/?type=1&theater" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/4pawsuniversity/photos/a.137573622069.109578.49741042069/10153149287112070/?type=1&theater</a><br />
<br />
Check ins: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_BEXER4lGo" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_BEXER4lGo </a><br />
<br />
Pattern Games: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mtn-BeI9lHE<br />
<br />
Proofing:<br />
<a class="profileLink" href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4852691852323&set=gm.10152808126606823&type=1" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4852691852323&set=gm.10152808126606823&type=1</a><br />
<br />
If none of the above helps, then breaks things down even more<br />
<a class="profileLink" href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4861991404806&set=gm.10152814343361823&type=1" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4861991404806&set=gm.10152814343361823&type=1</a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Then once you have attention, start rewarding your dog for walking next to you indoors with no equipment, then with equipment, then outdoors in a boring area. See above about the parking lot. It's what helped my dog, but your dog might need something else.<br />
More details here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html</a><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><When she starts pulling, I stop and don’t move again until she comes back to me, sits next to me and looks at me></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;">The stop and start method can be useful but can also be problematic. See more details here: </span></span><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/02/loose-leash-walking-part-10-pitfalls-of.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/02/loose-leash-walking-part-10-pitfalls-of.html</a><br /><br />If your dog has any fear or reactivity issues, I'd work on those separately</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br /><br />...</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;">Loose leash walking can be challenging for a lot of us. It took me a long time to teach Puddin (and we are still far from perfect). Hang in there.<br /><br />Additionally, check out everything by Leslie McDevitt (books and DVDs). Lots of great info on helping a gain focus and attention. Check DogWise, Cleanrun, and Tawzer.</span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/stubbypuddin" target="_blank"><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;">https://www.facebook.com/stubbypuddin</span></span></a><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/</a> </span> </span>Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-7393759397175195392015-04-11T12:59:00.000-05:002015-04-11T13:04:40.394-05:00What We Think We Are Training And What The Dog Is Learning Might Be Two Different Things.<div class="_5pbx userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}">
<br />
One of my dogs used to sneeze whenever we’d walk out of the house to go
for a walk. I thought that since he was so predictable, capturing and
rewarding the sneeze would be simple. After about 10 trials, I noticed a
positive CER* whenever I closed the door.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
So, I thought I was
rewarding a sneeze. Apparently, my timing was off and I was rewarding
the closing of the door. About 15 more trials and he was finally
sneezing on cue.<br />
<br />
<br />
<center><iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CqRmwuoC7Ow?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></center>
<br />
But that’s the beauty of reward based training.
So what if my pup got excited about the closing of the door? My mistake
was easy to fix. And my dog got treats so he was having fun either way.<br />
<br />
When we use pain, discomfort, fear, startle or intimidation - mistakes
are much harder to overcome – and of course it’s just plain stressful
for the dog.<br />
<br />
Example:<br />
I’m walking my dog and he starts
pulling because he sees another dog. I yank the leash and strangle my
dog (euphemistically called a leash correction.) In my mind, I’m
punishing him for pulling or I’m trying to “get his attention”. <br />
But just because that’s what’s in my mind doesn’t meant that is what my
dog is learning. A more likely scenario is that my dog starts to learn
that other dogs equal pain. And eventually my dog starts becoming
reactive towards other dogs. (negative CER)<br />
<br />
Another example<br />
I
don’t want my dog jumping on counters so I set a booby trap. Something
that makes a scary noise whenever his feet touch the counter. In my mind
I’m showing him that touching the counter is wrong. But the dog might
learn: <br />
-trying to eat is scary, <br />
-or going in the kitchen is scary, <br />
-or he might just learn to be afraid of all popping noises in general. <br />
-Or what if a neighbor kid walks by the window at the same time the
booby trap goes off? Now the dog learns to be afraid of children.<br />
<a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/lupebcm?source=feed_text"><span class="_58cl"></span></a><br />
<br />
<span class="_58cl">Stay tuned for more on the problems with punishment</span><br />
<br />
<span class="_58cl">Follow us at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/</a><br />Or <a href="https://www.facebook.com/stubbypuddin" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/stubbypuddin</a></span><br />
<br />
<span class="_58cl">#</span><span class="_58cm">LupeBCM</span><br />
<a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/problemwithpunishmentbcm?source=feed_text"><span class="_58cl">#</span><span class="_58cm">ProblemWithPunishmentBCM</span></a><br />
<a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/problemswithpunishmentbcm?source=feed_text"><span class="_58cl">#</span><span class="_58cm">ProblemsWithPunishmentBCM</span></a><br />
<a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/boobytrapsbcm?source=feed_text"><span class="_58cl">#</span><span class="_58cm">BoobyTrapsBCM</span></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$0:0">*CER
= Conditioned Emotional Response. In the positive example above, my dog
started anticipating a treat whenever I closed the front door.</span></div>
<span data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.0"><span data-reactid=".3.1:3:1:$comment10152508526481823_10152508530011823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$2:0">For many dogs leashes are a good example of a positive CER. Our dogs get all excited because they know that leashes equal walks.</span></span></span></span></span>Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-76577952778351486602015-03-15T12:33:00.001-05:002015-03-15T20:42:29.722-05:00Dog Appeasing PheromoneLife among humans can sometimes be stressful for our canines. Especially for those dogs who might have missed early socialization or have other issues.<br />
<br />
Of course the best thing to help these dogs is to get them feeling safe and use counter conditioning and desensitization to help them feel better about the things that bother them. Some people believe there are products can help calm dogs just a bit. One of those such products is "Dog Appeasing Pheromone" or DAP.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
Below are some excerpts about the product<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Note: Products like DAP, Thunder Shirt, rescue remedy etc.. should never be used in place of protection.<br />For example if a dog is nervous at the dog park, don't put on a DAP collar and take him to the dog park.<br />If dog is nervous about visitors, don't put on a Thunder Shirt and force your dog to sit in a visitor's lap.</span><br />
<br />
The Puppy Primer by Patricia B. McConnell <br />
..plug-in
pheromone dispenser called D.A.P.° or Comfort Zone. You can't smell it,
but your dog's brain perceives it to be the pheromone that is produced
by a mother dog when she is nursing her puppies. All you have to do is
buy it and plug it in-what could be easier than that?<br />
<br />
Love
Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home by Karen B.
London Ph.D., Ph.D. McConnell Patricia B. <br />
Consider helpful
products: There are a variety of products that help dogs with SA, from
DAP (dog appeasing pheromone), body wraps, homeopathic remedies and
medications from your veterinarian. None of these work for all dogs, but
we’ve had good luck with all of them on one dog or another.<br />
<br />
Chill Out Fido!: How to Calm Your Dog (Dogwise Training Manual) by
Nan Kene Arthur <br />
Use a DAP Dog pheromone diffuser to help calm
your dog. This plug-in device emits a scent is much like the pheromone
that mother dogs secrete when nursing their puppies. It has a very
calming effect. <br />
<br />
<br />
Scaredy Dog! Understanding & Rehabilitating Your Reactive Dog by Ali Brown <br />
DAP seems to work best for dogs who are fearful of loud noises such as thunderstorms and fireworks. <br />
<br />
<br />
TREATING SEPARATION ANXIETY IN DOGS by Malena DeMartini-Price <br />
A
few studies show that DAP has reduced anxiety in puppies in a
statistically significant way. One particular study by Gaultier et al.
in 2005 compared 30 separation anxiety dogs given DAP to 27 separation
anxiety dogs given Clomicalm, and both improved equally. For the most
part, my clients haven’t reported such benefits to me from the use of
DAP, but a small percentage did have impressive results. Because DAP has
been effective in a handful of cases, I do recommend at least trying
the spray version (which is the cheapest). I have a bottle of the spray
that I bring to my initial consult... <br />
<br />
Dr Karen Overall’s Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine <br />
Since
the 1990s, pheromonal analogue products (e.g., Feliway, DAP, Adaptil,
Felifriend, depending on country) have been available and marketed for
the treatment of behavioral concerns. Pheromonal analogue products are
not true pheromones, and purported active ingredients and complete
chemical structures have not been reported in the peer-reviewed
literature. These products have been asserted to work like pheromones, a
claim that has been inadequately substantiated. Few controlled studies
have been published in the peer-reviewed literature, and most studies
that assess the effects of these products have used inadequate designs
and controls and insufficient sample sizes (Frank et al., 2010). There
is very limited evidence that these products produce any consistent
behavioral effects (Frank et al., 2010), even when sufficient data and
experimental controls exist to evaluate outcome scientifically. The
results for which there may be adequate data for an effect tend to
involve non-specific responses associated with mild changes in activity
levels Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-69942570610853270342015-03-14T13:36:00.001-05:002015-03-15T20:41:28.143-05:00On Dogs Who Are Scared Of The Man of the HouseSometimes dogs who are shy can be afraid of men. A reason is not always known. Maybe it's because men tend to be bigger and have deeper voices. Might be because the dogs can smell the testosterone<br />
I suspect that for many rescue dogs, it might just be neophobia (fear of new things). A lot rescuers and fosterers are women. And some of these dogs probably didn't meet a lot of men during their crucial socialization period. <br />
<br />
Regardless of the reason, pet guardians need to figure out a way to help the dog feel better about members of the household.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Note: The below is a guide. It's best to work with a professional. Especially if there is any chance of bites or injury.<br />
And if there is no way to get the dog feeling safe, it might be best to consult a board certified vet behaviorist<br />
Also note that the below info can apply to anyone whom the dog fears. Not just men.<br />
<br />
Start with complete separation if possible. Split up the residence so the dog has no contact with the man or scary person. Then work with a trainer who can set up some controlled scenarios for success. Perhaps a neutral territory or outdoors with the scary person far enough away so that the dog is not concerned.<br />
See some details here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html</a><br />
And here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/visitors-part-iii.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/visitors-part-iii.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Once back indoors together:<br />
<br />
1. Scary person completely ignores the dog. No looking, no talking, no food from scary person. No feeding, no walks, etc..<br />
A. watch how scary person enters room. Might need to come in sideways or backwards to help dog feel better.<br />
<br />
2. Later, non scary person can treat the dog for presence of scary person. See counter conditioning and desensitization link above.<br />
<br />
3. Later, non scary person can treat for scary person's movements.<br />
Scary person lifts finger, non scary person treats<br />
Scary person lifts hand, non scary person treats<br />
Scary person lift arm, non scary person treats<br />
This could take days, weeks or months.<br />
Take your time.<br />
<br />
4. If #3 goes well. Non scary person can drop treats as he/she walks by.<br />
<br />
4a. Note during this time, the dog should not be encouraged to approach scary person at all. Teach the dog how to relax on a bed or behind a barrier that is a significant distance from the scary person. Reward the dog for keeping distance.<br />
<br />
5. Later if dog decides to approach scary person, practice treat/retreat. Toss a treat away from scary so the dog gets a double reward. Food plus relief from pressure.<br />
<br />
6. Much later, scary person can start rewarding approaches. i.e. scary person approaches from 10 feet away. Drops treat, leaves. The close the gap slowly (work with a professional)<br />
Then when dog approaches, scary person can treat.<br />
<br />
7. Later you can start rewarding touches. Only if touching is necessary. i.e. if the person is temporary or a guest, then touching and interacting is not necessary. If the person is going to be responsible for the dog (part owner), then touches will eventually be necessary. <br />
Info on desensitizing touching here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html</a><br />
<br />
Still no petting unless the dog is asking for petting. And then only really short, calm pets<br />
<a href="http://eileenanddogs.com/2012/08/29/does-your-dog-really-want-to-be-petted/" target="_blank">http://eileenanddogs.com/2012/08/29/does-your-dog-really-want-to-be-petted/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Also see:<br />
Why food should not come from the scary person: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/coaxing-with-flood.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/coaxing-with-flood.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-71144147999728694112015-02-22T13:42:00.001-06:002015-02-22T19:30:07.540-06:00Adopting a Rescue AnimalIn describing bringing home a rescue animal, someone wrote "he's [the dog] is still trying to figure out whether or not you are going to eat him."<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
A bit dramatic but it is a good analogy. Your new family member knows nothing about you. And while you know your home is a thousand times better than living in a shelter, your new companion doesn't know that yet. Just coming into a new environment can be scary. So for the first couple of days with your new family member, do nothing.<br />
<br />
No walks (except potty breaks), no visitors, no pet stores, no baths, no hand feeding, no playing with food, etc.. Just put food down and walk away.<br />
<br />
No petting unless the dog specifically asks for petting. And when he/she asks, just calm, short pets - maybe on the chest or or under the chin. Pet only for a few seconds, stop, see if he wants you to continue. No hugging squeezing, no vigorous rubbing. No physical playing.<br />
<br />
Don't give full run of the house yet. Maybe just access to the family room and the master bedroom (if dog is allowed in there) then slowly increase freedom.<br />
<br />
A vet trip might be necessary of course, but wait for everything else.<br />
<br />
Keep pup out of trouble - remote controls, shoes out of reach; counters clean; etc..<br />
<br />
It can be tempting to introduce you new family member to friends and family but it's too early for that. Let the new dog/cat/.. get you know you and your immediate in-residence family first.<br />
<br />
After a few days you can start short walks in quiet places. Do not stop and talk and strangers, don't walk near strangers or other dogs. It's too soon for the dog park yet.<br />
<br />
After a few more days, family and friends can start meeting your dog, but just one person at a time and make sure the person is well coached. No petting at first - unless the dog specifically asks for it and then only short pets.<br />
<br />
If you know that a friend or family member won't listen to your instructions or if you know the person has used a "heavy hand" with dogs before, then hold off on those meetings.<br />
<br />
All of the above is just for "normal" dogs or dogs who appear to be normal. If your pup already has known issues, then you'd want to go much much slower than what I describe here.<br />
<br />
For more on bringing home a rescue dog, check out Patricia McConnell's "Love Has No Age Limit"<br />
only 100 pages but full of good info.<br />
<a href="http://amzn.com/1891767143" target="_blank">http://amzn.com/1891767143</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-67224585396286789322015-02-22T10:40:00.000-06:002015-02-22T19:30:48.416-06:00Crate AcclimationLearning how to be comfortable in a crate can be useful in a variety of situations - boarding, traveling, etc..<br />
But contrary to popular belief, dogs are not "den animals." Although some dogs learn to like a crate right away, others might need some acclimation.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Some dogs might be easy. Just play a few games, toss a few treats and the dog is fine.<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUzF0g0PwY4" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUzF0g0PwY4</a><br />
<br />
<center>
</center>
<center>
</center>
<center>
<br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dUzF0g0PwY4?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></center>
<br />
<br />
Some dogs might need to learn to acclimate in teeny tiny increments (don't ask them to go in right away).<br />
Reward the dog for just walking by the crate. Reward the dog for looking at the crate and so on.<br />
See details here: <a href="http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/crate.htm" target="_blank">http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/crate.htm</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Of course this can take some time. If your dog needs to be confined for any reason while you are still working on crate acclimation, see some ideas here<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe</a><br />
<br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/videoseries?list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe" width="640"></iframe></center>
<br />
<br />
<br />
If a dog still has trouble acclimating to the crate in increments, we might need to start with confinement without the crate. Note the below suggested protocol might also help a dog who needs to learn to relax in a crate when pet parents move away from the crate.:<br />
<br />
Start with a relaxation protocol - like Dr Karen Overall's: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html</a><br />
<br />
Then a small, see through barrier. Something like this that will be open on all sides but one<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text0:0:$2:0">: </span><a class="" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$range0:0" dir="ltr" href="http://amzn.com/B0046V6KI0" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://amzn.com/B0046V6KI0</a></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$2:0">Then continue out of site exercises, stay exercises, relaxation protocol, etc. </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$2:0"> </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$5:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$6:0">Later use an exercise pen that has a wide opening on one side. </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$7:0" /><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$9:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$10:0">Next start closing it in but only in increments and keep trying the out of site exercises.</span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$11:0" /><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$13:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$14:0">Later close the ex pen all the way and keep doing the exercises.</span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$15:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$18:0"> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$18:0">A remote treat dispenser like a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Treat-Remote-Reward-Trainer/dp/B0010B8CHG" target="_blank">Treat and Train</a> or Manner's Minder can be useful for this - so you can also do out of site rewarding.</span><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><br /></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$0:0">Then try a room with no barrier</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$0:0">Then a room with barrier </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$0:0"> </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$3:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.0.$end:0:$4:0">Once pup does fine with that, start decreasing the size of the room.</span></span><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text0:0:$1:0" /><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text0:0:$3:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text0:0:$4:0">Next start with half of a crate. Details here: </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text0:0:$5:0" /><a class="" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$range0:0" dir="ltr" href="http://youtu.be/UR_5aazDjzc" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/UR_5aazDjzc</a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UR_5aazDjzc?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></center>
<br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$4:0">Then
you might be finally ready for out of sight with a crate. But try a
super duper large one so the dog won't feel so confined. </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$5:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$6:0"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$6:0">Once
the dog does fine in a very large crate, you can reduce the size to
something more manageable. But not too small of course. </span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$7:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$10:0">I
would not do the standard "just big enough to turn around and lay
down". I'd give the dog plenty of room - if that is what he/she wants. Some
dogs prefer smaller spaces.</span><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$11:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$14:0"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$text1:0:$14:0">Also experiment with different types of crates - plastic, wire, canvas (not very secure), etc..</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
A video representation of the above: <a href="http://youtu.be/YjUZfJ9ZZwo" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/YjUZfJ9ZZwo</a><br />
<br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YjUZfJ9ZZwo?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></center>
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<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0">Stay tuned for more on crating. Future posts were be here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/crating" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/crating</a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110660661823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$22:0"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3"><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0"><a class="" data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$range1:0" dir="ltr" href="http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/tag/crate-acclimation-posts/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$1:0" /><br data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$3:0" /><span data-reactid=".nx.1:3:1:$comment10153110420786823_10153110666781823:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1:$comment-body.0.3.0.$end:0:$4:0">Also see Malena De Martini Price's book on Separation Anxiety for some ideas for dogs who don't want to be left alone</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-22508306212847677622015-02-20T14:41:00.001-06:002015-02-20T14:41:07.658-06:00Reactivity. Part 6. Impulse Control. GreetingsFor all the reasons, I mention in Part 2, I don't let my dogs greet strange dogs when they are on leash.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
For those who do choose to allow on leash greetings I recommend working with a good trainer on completing everything in part 1 through 5 first. And also working on impulse control: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/03/impulse-control.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/03/impulse-control.html</a><br />
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Your dog should also be highly proficient at loose leash walking before attempting this.<br />
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A good trainer can provide a stable, calm to dog and meetings should be very short. Keep leashes loose at all times and allow natural circle greetings. More details here<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PILTphJw-OM" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PILTphJw-OM</a><br />
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Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Email general questions or comments to <a href="mailto:education@stubbypuddin.com" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">education@stubbypuddin.com</span></a></span><br />
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Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-41598260773983123222015-02-20T14:32:00.002-06:002015-02-20T14:32:23.971-06:00Reactivity. Part 5. Operant Conditioning. Once we have a dog who learns that stranger dogs equal treats (classical conditioning) then we can start asking for behaviors (operant conditioning)*<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />I
like to ask my dog to sit when he/she see other dogs. But it can be
any behavior. Basically as long as you give your dog something else to
do instead of bark, lunge, etc..<br /><br />But remember to only ask for a behavior after everything is in place - classical conditioning, operant conditioning, proofing etc.. Don't ask for a behavior that you haven't taught or your dog can't do. Pushing on the dogs butt or holding your dog in a sit or "massaging a dog into a down" will only increase frustration (among other problems). <br />And we need to make sure we are always at a comfortable and safe distance. i.e. don't ask for down (a very vulnerable position) when another dog is very close to your dog.<br /><br />
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*A short explanation of the difference between classical and operant conditioning <a href="http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2F1drv.ms%2F1w9VcZj&h=4AQFfKoiX&s=1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://1drv.ms/1w9VcZj</a> <br />
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Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Email general questions or comments to <a href="mailto:education@stubbypuddin.com" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">education@stubbypuddin.com</span></a></span><br />
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Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-55297613646232569342015-02-20T14:21:00.001-06:002015-02-20T14:50:21.776-06:00Reactivity. Part 4. Counter Conditioning And DesensitizationWe started with helping the dog feel safe and less frustrated (management)<br />
Then we worked on some foundation basics (relaxation, proofed behaviors)<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
Now it's time to actually address the issue with counter conditioning and desensitization. Some might say this is only for dogs who are afraid or aggressive. But I like to use CC/DS for frustrated greeters as well. For two reasons<br />
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1. Just in case we think we have a frustrated greeter but we really have a scared or worried dog. Even if we are wrong, CC/DS will certainly not make things worse.<br />
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2. Even if our dog is simply over excited or friendly, the DS (desensitization) part of CC/DS will help the dog be less frustrated and the CC part (counter conditioning) will help our friendly dog learn to look to us instead of stranger dogs.<br />
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It's best to work with a skilled trainer or behaviorist. Especially one who has access to some calm, stable dogs. Here are some ways to proceed:<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html</a><br />
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Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Email general questions or comments to <a href="mailto:education@stubbypuddin.com" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">education@stubbypuddin.com</span></a></span><br />
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<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-86671465715750238332015-02-20T14:09:00.000-06:002015-02-26T13:30:02.628-06:00Reactivity. Part III. FoundationBefore we can ask our dogs to ignore something as interesting as another dog, we need to teach what we want in a boring, calm environment.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
Additionally, reactivity towards other dogs can be part of a bigger issue of stress or anxiety. So it's best to treat the "whole dog"<br />
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See links here<br />
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<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/stress-reduction-for-behavioral-issues.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/stress-reduction-for-behavioral-issues.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/12/today-is-great-day-to-start-dr-karen.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/10/squirrel-chasing-part-ii-foundation_18.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/10/squirrel-chasing-part-ii-foundation_18.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/10/squirrel-chasing-part-iii-foundation-b.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/10/squirrel-chasing-part-iii-foundation-b.html </a><br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-part-i-foundation.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-part-i-foundation.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/proofing.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/proofing.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
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<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-26295177258556214612015-02-20T13:43:00.003-06:002015-02-20T13:45:23.699-06:00Reactivity. Part II. What If My Dog Is Friendly?Frustrated greeters - dogs who want to meet other dogs but who get overly excited about it.<br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Some people like to use a different protocol for frustrated greeters vs those dogs who might have some aggression towards strange dogs. <br /><br />Personally, I say they should be treated the same - at least in the beginning. Which means we keep our distance from other dogs. A far away enough distance that our dog doesn't become frustrated (See Management. Part 1). I suggest this for several reasons.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">1. Just because our dog appears to be dog friendly, it doesn't mean he actually is. Some dogs pull towards things that bother them. And some dogs fidget or fool around when they are nervous</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/09/some-dogs-dont-know-how-to-leave.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/09/some-dogs-dont-know-how-to-leave.html</a></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><a href="http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/2012/04/yikes-theres-a-prowler-in-the-house/" target="_blank">http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/2012/04/yikes-theres-a-prowler-in-the-house/</a></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><a href="https://onedrive.live.com/redir?page=view&resid=3834E38114C91840!991&authkey=!AAgAjuvdrkW67os" target="_blank">https://onedrive.live.com/redir?page=view&resid=3834E38114C91840!991&authkey=!AAgAjuvdrkW67os</a></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><br />2. Even if a dog actually is very friendly, if he is constantly pulling towards dogs on a tight leash, she can become frustrated. Frustration can turn into reactivity or maybe even aggression.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">3. Even if our dog is friendly, it doesn't mean the other dog is. And even if the other dog is, it doesn't mean that she wants a stranger dog barreling towards him face first. And even if the other dog doesn't mind, the other human might mind.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">4. Another way to significantly reduce frustration is to be consistent. If you let your dog go towards some dogs and not others, your dog will always be wondering which ones are okay to greet.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/permalink/408362032655591/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/permalink/408362032655591/</a> </span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"></span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"></span></span>5. If you let your dog pull towards strange dogs in a an excited state, he will never learn proper greetings. He will always pull toward dogs on a tight leash - which can scare dogs and make loose leash training very difficult for your dog.<br />
<b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b>
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Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-48671887610970731442015-02-19T20:23:00.001-06:002015-02-19T20:53:02.455-06:00Loose Leash Walking. Part 10. Pitfalls of Tree or Red Light Green Light<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dYcyoNDbJZE/VOaafXsBUOI/AAAAAAAABNo/tYiBzyugGG8/s1600/pitfalls%2Bof%2Btree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dYcyoNDbJZE/VOaafXsBUOI/AAAAAAAABNo/tYiBzyugGG8/s1600/pitfalls%2Bof%2Btree.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In order to teach loose leash walking, some people like to stop when the dog pulls (sometimes called "tree or "red light green light"). While this method is certainly better than yanking a dog around on a choke chain or prong, the tree method does have some pitfalls that pet parents should consider.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">1. We are setting the dog up for failure. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Utilizing tree means that we have to wait for the dog pull in order to teach him to not pull. It's better to teach what we want vs teaching what we don't want.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And it's better to reward a loose leash vs punishing a tight leash.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">2. The dog is practicing an undesirable behavior (pulling). When trying to reduce an undesirable behavior, the more we can prevent it, the less chance that it becomes a habit for the dog.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">3. Pet parents also have to be very mindful that the dog is actually stopped when she/she starts pulling. Dr Sophia Yin’s “How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves” has a good illustration on page 138. If you stop but your arm continues forward when your dog pulls, your dog has still rewarded him/herself for pulling. This could be problematic for pet parents who walk large and/or strong dogs.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">4. Large/strong dogs can also rock the human's body forward even if the arms are locked.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">5. Some dogs don’t mind hanging out at the end of a tight leash and air sniffing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">6. Some humans become impatient and continuing going forward while the leash is still tight</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">7. Some humans stop some of the time and continue forward other times. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">8. If pet parents aren’t careful, they can fall into a pattern of stopping, then walking, then stopping, etc.. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After considering some of the pitfalls, if pet parents choose to use the tree method, here are some things to consider.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">1. Use a comfortable harness. So when the dog pulls, it's not painful or dangerous (vs choking on a collar)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I like an H style harness with martingale backup - see video here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrwdNoYFyyk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrwdNoYFyyk</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">2. Be consistent. Stop every time the dog pulls, and never go forward when the leash is tight. Plan to not go far in the beginning.<br /><br />3. If the dog doesn't seem to be getting it or if you or the dog get frustrated, try another method.<br /><br />4. Don't use this method on:<br />A. Scared, nervous dogs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">B. Dogs who are over stimulated by their environment<br />C. Reactive or aggressive dogs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">5. When using, tree make sure you are in a very quiet, calm area</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">See more on loose leash walking here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html</a></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Tell us about your pulling dogs in the comments section below.</span><br />
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Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-16944360071061390252015-02-04T19:23:00.001-06:002015-02-04T20:28:00.588-06:00From The Mail Bag - Just Rescued A Shy Dog<span style="color: #274e13;"><I just rescued a dog.></span><br />
Thank you for rescuing <br />
<br />
<He went outside to potty, but if we got a leash out he froze. We had to carry him.><br />
<br />
You might want to weigh the trauma of picking him up several times a day vs the possibility of having house training issues. I'd seriously consider giving him an indoor toilet until things calm down a bit<br />
Ideas for a "Safe Room" here:<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53k2MciBDCQ&list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe&index=1" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53k2MciBDCQ&list=PL70eA_MZvAVor5I76KRvqyiuqLL7jRWhe&index=1</a><br />
<br />
Info on leash acclimation here (to be done later)<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/04/collar-and-harness-acclimation.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/04/collar-and-harness-acclimation.html</a><br />
<br />
<My husband and I have let him stay in his safe spot.><br />
Thanks good. <br />
<br />
<he gets outside and literally freezes><br />
I would seriously consider the indoor toilet. Getting that scared all the time will really slow down progress<br />
<br />
If he won't go indoors, then try to work on setting up a safe feeling area outside. Maybe a tent like structure, a covered exercise pen, etc.. Something that help him feel not so out the in the open and vulnerable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<Day three...showered him><br />
For now, I recommend no baths and very limited handling. Actually only handle him when absolutely necessary<br />
<br />
<br />
<we rubbed him and tried to reassure him. ><br />
I recommend not petting for now. Most scared dogs do not find petting reassuring. They would prefer space.<br />
<br />
<I would like to ask what the best plan is for a dog that I think has spent most of his two years><br />
Go really really slow. Let him learn his new world in teeny tiny stages<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/how-do-i-fix-my-scared-and-nervous-dog.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/how-do-i-fix-my-scared-and-nervous-dog.html</a><br />
<br />
<does respond to massages and head rubs, not affectionately, but it helps him relax a tad more.><br />
I would hold off on petting for now. What looks like calm is probably a dog who is shut down.<br />
More on petting here:<a href="http://eileenanddogs.com/2012/08/29/does-your-dog-really-want-to-be-petted/" target="_blank"> http://eileenanddogs.com/2012/08/29/does-your-dog-really-want-to-be-petted/</a><br />
Info on desensitizing touching here:<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html" target="_blank"> http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html</a><br />
<br />
<Last Foster put him on SamE and a natural calming spray. Recommended Prozac, which I do not want to do.><br />
Alternative meds under vet supervision are fine<br />
Psychotropic drugs like Prozac (under vet supervision) is fine as well. But these medicines don't work by themselves. They need to be used in conjunction with management and desensitization and counter conditioning. I recommend a consult with a board certified vet behaviorist.<br />
<br />
Info on counter conditioning here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL70eA_MZvAVoG4wVvh0DaIRBvYpZLW7M0" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL70eA_MZvAVoG4wVvh0DaIRBvYpZLW7M0</a><br />
<br />
<I will not give up on him, just want to make sure I am doing the best thing for him.><br />
Wonderful<br />
Take things super super slow.<br />
<br />
Completely ignore him for a couple of days. <br />
The just walk by him without looking and drop a tasty treat<br />
Later approach with 10 or 20 feet. Toss a treat (if it doesn't scare him), and leave<br />
Later approach a bit closer, toss a treat and leave.<br />
Later if pup decides to approach, toss a treat way and behind him. That way he gets rewarded for approaching but also gets relief.<br />
Have a good trainer or vet behaviorist help with this<br />
More in desensitizing touching here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/11/desensitizing-touching.html</a><br />
<br />
Info on finding a skilled force free trainer here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html</a><br />
<br />
Also includes a link for finding a board certified vet behaviorist<br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-6642516871498580222015-01-28T17:34:00.002-06:002015-01-28T17:34:28.414-06:00Human Allergies To Pets<strong>Are you sure it’s the pet?</strong><br />
Some people can develop allergies later in life. So even though that oak tree that has been in the backyard for 15 years has never given you problems, it might be a problem now.<br />
If it’s not too scary for the pet and if it is safe, consider having a friend take care of the pet or board the pet at a reputable facility for a few days. See if your symptoms subside. If they don’t you will know it was not the pet that was giving you problems.<br />
<br />
<strong>Could it be something on the pet?</strong><br />
When I used to volunteer at animal shelters, some of the cleaning solutions workers used would make me cough. Especially <a href="http://www.colgatecommercial.com/%5CColgateSite%5Cmedia%5CMSDS%5CFabuloso%20All%20Purpose%20Cleaner%20%28all%20variants%29%20.pdf" target="_blank">Fabuloso</a>.<br />
If the pet lived with or played with other pets before arriving at your residence, the pet might be carrying urine or fecal matter on his/her fur. The pet might have perfume or cologne on his/her fur from cuddling with volunteers and/or staff members and/or the previous owner. The pet could have rolled in something on the ground. If the pet was bathed right before you took him/her, the shampoo could have been perfumey and allergy inducing.<br />
Consider any flea or tick applications or collars that cause problems for a human<br />
If it’s safe and not too scary for the pet, try giving the pet a bath in a perfume free, dye free, detergent free, hypoallergenic shampoo. Check with your vet for a good brand. Or ask your vet about the safety of a vinegar and water rinse or baking soda and water rinse or a sugar scrub.<br />
<br />
<strong>Can you give it time? </strong><br />
I have found that whenever a new pet entered my home (temporary fosters or permanent residents), I often went through an adjustment period – different allergy symptoms with different pets.<br />
When Matt-Matt came to live with me, the inside of my face itched for about a year. Then the itching went away. Yes, a year is a very long time. But during this time, Matt-Matt slept in bed with me, right next to my face. He was comfortable there and he was a very nervous dog by nature so I didn’t mind having him there. If I had given him is own bed, I’m sure my itching would have subsided sooner.<br />
When Puddin came to live me with me, I had very painful eczema for 6 weeks. The eczema was actually a lot more annoying than the face itching. I probably could have cuddled her a little bit less to reduce my symptoms. But the symptoms did eventually go away.<br />
When Murphy came to live with me, I had a dry cough for about 6 weeks, then it went away.<br />
So will other folks be able to adjust to their new furry family members the way I did? I don’t know. Of course the down side to waiting might be that the allergies don’t subside and the family is more attached to the new pet.<br />
<br />
<strong>Treatments </strong><br />
So what if none of the above works?<br />
Before giving up the pet, talk to your conventional doctor about over the counter or prescription medication. Or talk to a holistic practitioner about other ways to alleviate allergy symptoms. Be sure to <a href="http://www.consumeraffairs.com/rx/zyrtec.html" target="_blank">thoroughly research any medications</a>.<br />
Something that I happened upon by accident – vegan raw foods.<br />
Despite taking four different medications per day, my allergies were pretty bad at night for some reason. Every night around 10:00 PM, I’d get puffy, itchy eyes and sniffles. One day I just happened to eat a couple of salads that contained only raw veggies and fruit and nothing else. Later that night, I had no symptoms. I tried nothing but raw for a few more days — no symptoms. When I would go back to eating cooked foods, my allergy symptoms would come back.<br />
I don’t expect allergy sufferers to change their diet to vegan, whole, raw foods, but it’s just an example of one remedy that worked for one person.<br />
The person with allergies could wash his/her hands after engaging with the pet. Maybe even consider a dust mask when engaging the pet (at least until medical relief kicks in)<br />
<br />
<strong>Housekeeping </strong><br />
Vacuum every day or better yet, remove carpet<br />
Dust every day<br />
Brush pet outside daily ( to be done by the non allergic person of the household)<br />
Wipe pet down with damp cloth daily<br />
Set up air purifiers preferably with HEPA filters<br />
Set up pet free zones in the house (usually the bedroom of the allergy sufferer)<br />
<br />
<strong>Other allergens</strong><br /> Allergy sufferers are often allergic to more than one substance. Consider minimizing other allergens so that pet allergens are more easily tolerated<br />
Remove all chemicals and perfumes (in the residence and on people) – i.e. air fresheners, scented laundry detergent, makeup, etc..<br />
For more information on allergies to pets see information from the Humane Society of the United States <a href="http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/resources/tips/allergies_pets.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<br />
<strong>Miscellaneous</strong><br />
Of course some people can have a life threatening reaction to certain allergens. Asthma attacks and the like are not to be taken lightly. And human children should not be forced to be miserable and or sick in order to keep a new pet.<br />
<br />Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-14947228905079259752015-01-20T21:53:00.000-06:002015-01-20T22:50:31.510-06:00Reactivity. Part I - Definition, Management, Safety<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quhfePyLoPE/VL6Orp4CjkI/AAAAAAAAAWM/ceaEHnMInY0/s1600/reactivity.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quhfePyLoPE/VL6Orp4CjkI/AAAAAAAAAWM/ceaEHnMInY0/s1600/reactivity.JPG" height="147" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: red;">Caution: If a dog has hurt a human or other animal or has the propensity to harm, please seek professional help* immediately.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
This is going to be the first post in a series of posts about reactivity. Such a broad term - reactivity. What exactly does it mean? <br />
<br />
<b>Definition</b><br />
For the purposes of this series, let's say that it occurs when a dog is not in control of his/her own actions. Basically a dog who sees a trigger** and starts barking or lunging.<br />
<br />
Dogs can be reactive for any number of reasons - frustration, fear, excitement, lack of impulse control, "aggression", etc.. But no matter the cause, our first step in treating any undesirable behavior issue is to the set the dog up to not practice the behavior.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Management</b><br />
So the first thing we do is avoid the thing that makes the dog bark and lunge.<br />
<br />
That might mean:<br />
Walking in quiet areas<br />
Walking at odd hours<br />
Preparing for issues by practicing emergency U turns; planning escape routes, practicing for certain situations. More details here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/to-keep-our-dogs-safe-we-should-work-on.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/to-keep-our-dogs-safe-we-should-work-on.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Safety</b><br />
Reactive dogs should always be on leash when not in secured areas.<br />
<br />If necessary, some pet parents might consider conditioning their dogs to where a basket muzzle.<br />Please don't use any other muzzle for walks. Basket muzzles allow panting, drinking, even treat taking.<br />
Muzzles should only be used as a backup to management. Never in place of management (i.e. keep a good distance from triggers, keeping dogs on leash, etc..)<br />More on muzzles here: <a href="http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/tag/muzzles/" target="_blank">http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/tag/muzzles/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
*Hiring a Trainer: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html</a><br />
<br />
** Triggers - things that bother dogs (squirrels, humans, other dogs, cats, cars, bicycles, etc..)<br />
<br />
Stay Tuned. More on reactivity will be posted here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/reactivity</a><br />
<br />
<br />latrendahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09834930615541878308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-18128638016671743642015-01-18T21:01:00.000-06:002015-01-18T21:01:06.841-06:00Counter Surfing. Part 3. Training HumansSo what if you are willing to keep the counter clean but you are having a hard time with family members leaving stuff on the counters?<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
We can still manage our dogs using crates, barriers, etc..
We can go behind family members cleaning after them.<br />
And we can try positive reinforcement on family members:<br />
<br />
Simple - Thank family members whenever the counters are clean. The more that desired behaviors are reinforced, the more they will be repeated.<br />
<br />
More elaborate - Check the counters 5 times a day. On days that the counters are clean during at least 3 checks, the family gets a star. After 5 stars, the family gets a fun outing, or an expensive treat.<br />
<br />
For more ideas on using positive reinforcement on humans, read Karen Pryor's "Don't Shoot The Dog." Also research "Tag Teaching" - mentioned Karen Pryor's "Reaching The Animal Mind"<br />
<br />
See more on counter surfing here:<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/counter%20surfing" style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 15.4559993743896px;" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/counter%20surfing</a>latrendahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09834930615541878308noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-2380140587833692712015-01-17T12:25:00.004-06:002015-01-17T12:54:53.207-06:00From The Mail Bag: My Dog Won't Come To Me IndoorsIf a dog will come in one context (outdoors) but won't come in another context (indoors), then we need to start thinking about what is different:<br />
<br />
1. Is there more noise indoors?<br />
Television<br />
Radio<br />
People talking loudly<br />
Children playing<br />
<br />
2. Are the floors slick and hard to run on?<br />
<br />
3. Does something unpleasant happen when the dog comes when called indoors?<br />
Sent to crate<br />
Human leaves<br />
Bath<br />
Nail trims<br />
Scolding<br />
<br />
Once you have addressed all known issues (i.e. rubber flooring, not sending to crate when called, etc..). Then just start all over with recall training. You might need to use a new word if the original cue has lost its meaning.<br />
<br />
Recall the pup from 1 foot away, heavily reward when he/she comes. Then proof in tiny increments.<br />
<br />
References:<br />
Proofing: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/proofing.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/proofing.html</a><br />
Recall tips and tricks: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/recall-tips-and-tricks.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/recall-tips-and-tricks.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Follow us on facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/stubbypuddin/" target="_blank">Puddin's Dog Friendly Training</a>Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-45413315998833431102015-01-13T22:15:00.000-06:002015-01-13T22:15:01.484-06:00Counter Surfing Part II - What Not To DoContinuing our discussion on counter surfing. We've already talked about what to do. Here is what we should not do<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Yell, spritz, startle, etc.<br />
Scaring the dog can create fallout (problems can arise that might or might not
seem directly related to the punishment (like inappropriate elimination))<o:p></o:p><br />
And even if scaring the dog worked, most likely it will only work when you
are there. Dogs learn safe vs unsafe (not right from wrong) and they know it's
safe to get on the counters when you aren't there. <br /><br />
And if you are there, you can calmly redirect or just clean the counters. There
is no need to punish or scare. Calmly redirecting takes the same amount of time
and there is no fallout. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
Booby traps (noise makers, shocking mats, sticky stuff, pointy/sharp stuff,
etc..)<br />
These are just plain dangerous <o:p></o:p><br />
If a dog is in the middle of jumping up or is already on the counter and the
dog gets shocked or scared or hurt, he or she might come down the wrong way and
injure him/herself. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<br />
Also the problem with booby traps is that you might know what you are trying
to punish but the dog doesn't know. <br />
You want the dog to learn no counter surfing. But the dog might learn to be
scared of the kitchen or scared of food/eating. Or what if the trap goes off
when a neighbor walks by the window and your dog becomes of afraid of the
neighbor - might even become aggressive - because he/she equates the neighbor
with shock, pain, fear, startle...<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
More to come on counter surfing. See the first post here<br />
<a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/counter%20surfing" style="background-color: white; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 15.4559993743896px;" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/counter%20surfing</a>Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-15548445836939690622015-01-09T15:11:00.003-06:002015-01-10T13:42:52.787-06:00Leash Biting/Tugging<!--[if !mso]>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_IjruuU8j0/VLBDqvyvWmI/AAAAAAAABKY/ziHLFQQlMLg/s1600/Leash%2BBiting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_IjruuU8j0/VLBDqvyvWmI/AAAAAAAABKY/ziHLFQQlMLg/s1600/Leash%2BBiting.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dogs normally have a good reason to bite or tug on their
leash when out walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some reasons
might be :</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Discomfort/Pain</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Fear</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Anxiety</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Over
Arousal</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Learned/Reinforced
Behavior</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">•<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Fun</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s look at each one and consider some remedies.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Discomfort/Pain</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Analysis: </i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Take a look at the equipment your dog is wearing. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Is it designed to cause pain or discomfort? (choke chain,
prong, collar high and behind the ears?, etc..).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And some equipment might not be designed for discomfort but
still might be uncomfortable to your dog. (harnesses that pinch or rub, a face
halter that wasn’t acclimated, a flat collar that the dog pulls against, any
equipment that is not properly fitted etc..)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Remedies</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Do not use equipment specifically designed for discomfort<br />
Speak to a vet (maybe an ortho vet) about the fit and design of your equipment</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Listen to your dog – test out different types of equipment and
see what your dog likes. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Teach loose leash walking</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Start all over with acclimation as necessary</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">References</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Loose Leash Walking: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Leash, Collar, Harness
Acclimation: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/04/collar-and-harness-acclimation.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/04/collar-and-harness-acclimation.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dogs who don’t like their harnesses: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g86d7o8oPI8&feature=youtu.be%0d">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g86d7o8oPI8&feature=youtu.be</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Fear/Anxiety</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Analysis</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Some dogs might be afraid to be
outside</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Some dogs might be afraid of
cars, or bikes or strangers touching them</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Some dogs might be afraid of
strangers</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Remedies</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If your pup doesn’t enjoy walking, the best thing to do is
to stop for a while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the help of a
skilled, force free trainer, figure out each of your dog’s triggers, then start
well below threshold and work on each trigger one at a time. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dogs who have generalized anxiety, in addition
to behavior modification, might require the services of a board certified vet
behaviorist or a holistic vet who has some experience with
behavior/fear/anxiety<br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For a dog who is afraid to go outside, you might have to
start indoors, close to the door, then work your way closer to outside in tiny
increments. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For a dog who doesn’t enjoy meeting strangers, walk far away
from strangers</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For a dog who is afraid of traffic, try walking in quiet
parks</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>References </i><br />
See more on desensitization and counter conditioning here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html</a><br />
<br />Walking alternatives: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/when-you-dont-feel-like-walking.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/when-you-dont-feel-like-walking.html </a><br />
<br />Hiring a Trainer/Vet Behaviorist: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2012/09/hiring-training-where-to-start-your.html</a><br /><br />Dogs who get upset about cars: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/vehicle%20chasers" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/vehicle%20chasers</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Over Arousal/Over
Stimulated/Frustrated</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Analysis</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some dogs can get over aroused or over stimulated by all the
things that they have to take in during a walk</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Remedies</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of the same remedies for fear and anxiety (see above)
can also help a dog who is over stimulated or over aroused.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Comfortable equipment and a loose leash can
help as well (see above)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Additionally:<br />
Shorter walks (at least in the beginning)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Break up walks – take breaks to hang out, do tricks, etc..</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Impulse Control games (start in a boring environment first
then work your way up)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dogs who are constantly on edge might require assistance
from a conventional vet behaviorist or holistic vet</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Keep a good distance from things that get the dog aroused –
like other dogs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">References</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Avoidance: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/to-keep-our-dogs-safe-we-should-work-on.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/02/to-keep-our-dogs-safe-we-should-work-on.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Exercise: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/exercise">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/search/label/exercise</a><br />
Impulse Control: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/03/impulse-control.html">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/03/impulse-control.html</a><br />
Walking alternatives: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/when-you-dont-feel-like-walking.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/when-you-dont-feel-like-walking.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Learned/Reinforced/Fun</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Analysis</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some dogs might tug at the leash because it’s fun or because
it has been taught.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Remedies</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heavily reinforce another tug/play item that is not the same
texture as the leash – do this when not walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>See Jean Donaldson’s “Culture Clash” for tug
rules.<br />
Teach a positively taught “out” so you have more control over how the
game starts and when the game needs to end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Be sure to use lots of lots of impulse control with this game – so your dog
does not become over-aroused.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then when out on walks, ask for a quick tug game with this toy
long before the dog grabs the leash.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Just a quick game, then back to walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then maybe another quick game then back to walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the dog starts getting too aroused, see
above for arousal/frustration… Eventually work towards calmer walks.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When not walking, teach “leave it” or “drop it” using only
positive reinforcement. Proof it in teeny tiny increments. Then use it during
walks when necessary. Ask dog to drop the leash. Heavily reward when he/she
complies.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Making the leash inconsequential can also help. See the
above loose leash walking summary – Part 5.<br />
<br />
Keep dog engaged during most of the walk... talking, treats, etc.. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /><i>Managemen</i>t - These remedies might not address the underlying issue but it might help keep the dog from practicing the undesired behavior while the pet parent addressees root causes or implements training.<br />
<br />Clip two leashes for your dog (and carry a 3<sup>rd</sup>
one just in case).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When dog grabs a
leash, drop that leash. And pick up the other one. If he grabs the one you are
holding then switch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Quickly recover a dropped leash to avoid tangling/dragging. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Walk the dog in a back clip harness. The leash will be
further from his mouth and harder to grab. Even better is a sled type harness
where the clip is even further down the back (work with your vet on fit and comfort).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Harnesses do not promote pulling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
Some people might suggest encouraging the dog to hold a toy in his/her mouth. A toy can be a wonderful "pacifier;" but consult with a vet on the safest way to do this. Dog who walk long distance or walk in warm/hot weather need to be able to easily pant. Holding the toy might affect proper panting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">References</i><br />
Drop it: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10200162442580950">https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10200162442580950</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTiVOCNY4M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTiVOCNY4M</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Proofing: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4852691852323&set=gm.10152808126606823&type=1">https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4852691852323&set=gm.10152808126606823&type=1</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wrap up</b>:<br />
What if you aren’t sure whether your dog’s issue is because of fun, fear,
arousal, etc..?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If unsure, it’s probably best to treat it as fear or arousal
before assuming it’s just for fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
won’t hurt anything to work on loose leash walking, impulse control etc..</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And look for other hints that the dog might be scared or
aroused</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Panting when it’s not hot</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dilated Pupils<br />
Sweaty feet</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Runny nose</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Eyes darting</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Constantly on alert</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Reactive (barking and lunging)<br />
Pulling hard on leash, etc.. <br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For more on reading dogs, see books by Brenda Aloff, Truid
Rugass, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Martina-Scholz/e/B001K7YTUY/ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_1?qid=1420833308&sr=8-1"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Martina
Scholz</span></a> and Clarissa von Reinhardt, etc..</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">What NOT to do</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bitter Apple</i> – does
not address the issue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It might stop a
dog from grabbing the leash (might not), but some dogs might redirect to pants
legs, human skin, etc.. And adding an aversive will contribute to issues rather
than solve them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Chain leashes</i> –
Chain leashes are okay for those who prefer them. But they will not address
pain, fear, over arousal etc.. A determined biter might bite the leash and hurt
him/herself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A dog who chooses not to
bite the chain leash, might redirect.<br />
A human trying to hold on to a chain leash (on a pulling dog) might hurt his/her hands. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Physically take the leash out of
his/her mouth</i>; <i>Pull on the leash</i>. This will most likely get the dog over aroused or must make him
want to hold onto the leash more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Best
to trade with a toy, or another leash or food.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-2606082108768683772015-01-08T22:58:00.003-06:002015-01-08T23:00:36.016-06:00Ladder Of Aggression<span style="line-height: 1.38;">Years ago, I worked for in a small organization. We all knew each other well. And all of my coworkers knew that I had several dietary restrictions – (no animal products, no processed foods, etc..)</span><br />
<span style="line-height: 1.38;"></span><br />
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One day they were planning a potluck and folks were wondering how to accommodate me. I told them it would be easier if I just brought my own food.</div>
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The day of the potluck came and one of my coworkers made a dish that had meat and other stuff I didn’t want. She tried to get me to eat some and I politely said “no thanks”. But then she insisted that I at least just try a small amount. I said “no thank you”. She pushed the issue, so I just calmly walked away. She followed me down the hall saying, “you can just pick the meat out”. I said “no thank you” a bit more firmly. She continued to pursue. So I turned and yelled. “I DON’T WANT ANY”. Then she got mad at me for yelling at her.<br />
I didn’t want to yell at her. But she ignored all of my polite requests to leave me alone.</div>
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Most of the time when a dog growls or bites or snaps, it’s because a whole bunch of other requests/warnings were ignored. A growling dog is normally stressed and uncomfortable. Most growling dogs don’t want to bite, but they might try that next if they feel they have no other choice. And if we suppress a growl, then they might not have any other way to express their discomfort other than biting (since we often ignore head turns, lip licks, yawns, etc..)</div>
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See the “Ladder of Aggression” here:<a href="http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Favsabonline.org%2Fblog%2Fview%2Fladder-of-aggression&h=bAQEsW7nC&enc=AZNp5mC_nptmjZluIiaKAlLRBaJuHS2tULjI40Y-nZHzPhTOxAd3H_OqpDHtS-cA1Jt1mW1Di7qicgW5Fxbn85iiWb5SlXo34MmZAbfIQvBDU4lzbR0ie6TgIXz-rC0fo8jUMWJZp4Ny_atPK9k-W28a&s=1" rel="nofollow" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://avsabonline.org/blog/view/ladder-of-aggression</a></div>
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Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-2892450066982065222015-01-07T21:10:00.000-06:002015-01-09T16:38:11.118-06:00Pet Medications - Acepromazine<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px none; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 20px !important; outline: none 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
Some nervous or noise phobic dogs are prescribed Acepromazine. Although this drug has it’s place in veterinary medicine, as with all drugs (psychotropic or not), if a pet is not in an emergency situation, pet parents should do their own research in addition to discussions with their vet.<br />
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From the literature:<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">From </span><a href="http://amzn.to/YXbVRK" style="border: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; text-align: center; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Dog In Sight</a><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;">by Pamela Reid</span></div>
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” Acepromazine (Atravet) is sometimes recommended for thunderphobic dogs, but its anti anxiety effects are questionable and it can actually increase sensitivity to noises”</div>
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<a href="https://kindle.amazon.com/work/oh-behave-pavlov-premack-ebook/B001JNNY28/B0037CI7N0" style="border: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">From Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker</a> by Jean Donaldson<br />
“Valium is a better choice than a drug such as acepromazine. This latter agent will affect the dog physically but not provide any anti-anxiety properties. This can actually result in a more stressed dog—the original noise is still perceived, but now his motor skills are impaired.”</div>
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From <a href="https://kindle.amazon.com/work/fired-frantic-freaked-out-ebook/B00AXFZEAI/B00AX2Y8G2" style="border: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out: Training Crazy Dogs from Over the Top to Under Control</a> by Laura VanArendonk Baugh<br />
“It is thought also that acepromazine, often prescribed for noise phobias, actually increases sensitivity to noise, but that the animal simply cannot express its fear or reactions.”</div>
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“Some vets still use tranquilizers for anxiety or phobias, but this is decidedly not recommended. Ace is a dopamine antagonist and an anti-psychotic drug; giving it to dogs who are not psychotic (i.e., not schizophrenic, etc.) results in a loss of motor control. This appears to work well as a tranquilizer, but it makes the root problem worse. The animal is still just as afraid — but now is unable to act on his fears.”</div>
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“A woman told me her dog was afraid of storms, and they were using the prescribed acepromazine to control it. Even after eight years of “treatment,” the dog’s storm phobia had gotten progressively worse, and if they didn’t get the dose into the dog in time, the dog’s terror was extreme.”</div>
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From <a href="https://kindle.amazon.com/work/help-fearful-step---step-ebook/B002BM9CPO/B004IARWBI" style="border: 0px; color: black; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Help for Your Fearful Dog: A Step-by-Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fears</a> by Nicole Wilde</div>
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“Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. took brain wave recordings of dogs on acepromazine and says, “Their brains were going a mile a minute.” So although a dog might appear sedated and calm, her state of mind might be something else entirely. Acepromazine can also cause blood pressure to lower and aggressive behavior to intensify. And there is anecdotal evidence that in Boxers, acepromazine can cause an arrhythmia of the heart, which can be fatal. Whatever your dog’s breed, use caution with this particular medication.”</div>
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“Acepromazine is a drug that is often prescribed by veterinarians for short-term fear situations. But as Dr. Karen Overall states, “Acepromazine is a dissociative anesthetic meaning that it scrambles perceptions. Ask yourself if a scrambling of perceptions will make an anxious dog or uncertain dog worse or better. It’s always worse, and we make many if not most dogs more sensitive to storms by using this drug. In part this is also because sensitivity to noise is heightened.”'</div>
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Also see this video by Dr Overall: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-GsmrFYHKk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-GsmrFYHKk</a></div>
Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2758919944359015537.post-36952165656647210832015-01-07T20:45:00.001-06:002015-01-07T21:19:30.959-06:00Grooming and Medicinal Support<span style="font-size: large;">So you gone through the <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/12/advanced-counter-conditioning-and.html" target="_blank">counter conditioning</a> steps and your pup still squirms, fights, growls etc.. Maybe the issue is more than fear or discomfort. Maybe the pup feels pain while being brushed or while having her nails done or ears cleaned, etc.. When an animal is in pain, counter conditioning might not work.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If your pup continues to have problems with grooming, talk to your allopathic/conventional vet or your holistic vet about a pain assessment or maybe even some remedies or medications that might help alleviate pain.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5t7I4w6vHI/VK3t85FIyUI/AAAAAAAABKA/D4tkRirdceU/s1600/Grooming%2BMight%2BBe%2BPainful.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5t7I4w6vHI/VK3t85FIyUI/AAAAAAAABKA/D4tkRirdceU/s1600/Grooming%2BMight%2BBe%2BPainful.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">If pain management doesn't seem to help or if pain doesn't seem to be the issue, sometimes pets need a bit of support to go along with counter conditioning and desensitization - especially those pets who have generalized anxiety or those who have been through a trauma. Talk to your holistic vet about remedies for anxiety or talk to a board certified vet behaviorist about situational and/or long term anxiety medication. Be sure to do you own independent research about what ever medication is prescribed. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Some vets still prescribe acepromazine (ACE) which can the problematic for many dogs.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Dr Karen Overall on ACE: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-GsmrFYHKk" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-GsmrFYHKk</a></span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6-GsmrFYHKk" width="420"></iframe></center>
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<span style="font-size: large;">See more on ACE here: <a href="http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/01/pet-medications-acepromazine.html" target="_blank">http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2015/01/pet-medications-acepromazine.html</a><br /><br />A list of veterinary behaviorists in the United States: <a href="http://www.dacvb.org/about/member-directory/" target="_blank">http://www.dacvb.org/about/member-directory/</a></span></center>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For other countries right to the folks at the above link for a list for your country.</span></center>
Puddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08587715790540949936noreply@blogger.com0